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Especialização produtiva e aglomeração industrial: uma análise da indústria de confecções de Ibitinga - SP

Matushima, Marcos Kazuo
Fonte: Universidade Estadual Paulista (UNESP) Publicador: Universidade Estadual Paulista (UNESP)
Tipo: Tese de Doutorado Formato: vii, 183 f. : il., mapas, gráfs., fots.
POR
Relevância na Pesquisa
16.19%
Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES); Pós-graduação em Geografia - IGCE; Este trabalho estuda o desenvolvimento da aglomeração industrial de Ibitinga-SP, a partir do processo de reestruturação produtiva que atinge a indústria brasileira na última década. A origem da indústria de Ibitinga está relacionada a uma combinação de fatores eminentemente endógenos, que possibilitaram o surgimento e a evolução do ramo de confecção, constituindo um cluster industrial. A indústria de confecções local se torna, já nos anos 1970, a principal atividade econômica do município de Ibitinga, e teve como principal característica a produção de artigos de cama, mesa e banho bordados à máquina. A partir da crise dos anos 1980 e do processo de abertura econômica dos anos 1990, a indústria local passa por um processo de reestruturação para se adaptar à nova realidade nacional e mundial, com a ampliação do espectro produtivo, através da introdução de maquinário moderno e novos produtos. Soma-se a isso a importância do conhecimento tácito difundido na aglomeração industrial, o qual assume um papel relevante no processo de estruturação do ramo de confecções como principal atividade industrial em Ibitinga. Concluiu-se que o relativo sucesso no surgimento e na consolidação desta aglomeração industrial está ligado a uma combinação de fatores e processos endógenos...

Proposta metodológica para construção de um banco de dados terminológico e elaboração de um glossário bilíngue da área têxtil

Marian, Jane
Fonte: Universidade Federal de Santa Catarina Publicador: Universidade Federal de Santa Catarina
Tipo: Tese de Doutorado Formato: 208 p.| il.
POR
Relevância na Pesquisa
26.88%
Tese (doutorado) - Universidade Federal de Santa Catarina, Centro de Comunicação e Expressão, Programa de Pós-Graduação em Estudos da Tradução, Florianópolis, 2013.; Com a globalização da economia mundial e consequente integração dos mercados internacionais, a tradução ampliou seus raios de atuação. Como objeto de pesquisa a tradução é investigada por meio do campo disciplinar dos Estudos da Tradução. O setor têxtil, base econômica de primeira ordem no polo regional do Vale do Itajaí, apresenta grande demanda na tradução de documentos de maquinários importados. Logo, paralelamente à crescente atividade de importação de máquinas de costura, surge à necessidade de tradução de manuais destinados a mecânicos, técnicos, e outros profissionais do setor têxtil. Análise prévia dos manuais de máquinas de costura revelou a carência de suportes para a tradução destes materiais, bem como a falta de textos traduzidos como referência para esta investigação. Como prevê a Lei nº 8.078, de 11 de setembro de 1990, art.31, deveria ser assegurado a todo consumidor informações de produtos estrangeiros adquiridos, em língua portuguesa. Surgiu assim a ideia da elaboração de uma metodologia para auxiliar na construção de bancos de dados terminológicos e na criação de glossários bilíngues...

Optimisation and control of processes in apparel manufacturing

Carvalho, Helder
Fonte: Universidade do Minho Publicador: Universidade do Minho
Tipo: Tese de Doutorado
Publicado em //2003 ENG
Relevância na Pesquisa
16.89%
The industrial production of garments and similar textile end products is an activity that has roots back to the 19th century, and that has profited immensely from continuous technological developments since its first emergence. However, several characteristics of the materials that are processed give rise to technical issues that are difficult to objectively manage and control. The limpness and elasticity of textiles make automated material handling and transportation within the shopfloor, and at the individual assembly operations, very difficult to automate. Another important aspect is the unpredictable behaviour of the materials when they undergo the manufacturing operations. Particularly in sewing operations, most of the process design is still based on subjective and empirical judgement. The machines, although often equipped with complex devices to aid in material handling, are blind regarding the process itself; they run with an initial set-up and are neither capable of adapting to varying sewing conditions nor can they detect anomalous operation. The current market trends, with an increasing variety of materials and styles, combined with small production runs, stress the significance of machine and production system set-up times. The importance of better control over quality at both the design and manufacturing stages is also much greater now than in the past. Another motivation for objective process control is the growing need to quantitatively monitor and even document sewing conditions concerning high-tech seams (air bags...

Fuzzy logic based control strategies for an electromagnetic actuated sewing machine presser foot

Guhr, Florian; Silva, Luís F.; Oliveira, Filomena; Carvalho, Helder
Fonte: Universidade do Minho Publicador: Universidade do Minho
Tipo: Conferência ou Objeto de Conferência
Publicado em /12/2004 ENG
Relevância na Pesquisa
46.79%
Comunicação apresentada na International Conference on Industrial Technology, Hammamet, Tunisia, 8 - 10 Dezembro 2004.; Industrial sewing machines have been significantly improved in recent years and especially electronic sewing control is now being introduced. This study concerns the development of a controller for an electromagnetically actuated presser foot. The controller is responsible for controlling the vertical movement of the presser foot. This is an important point since the presser foot tends to bounce at high sewing speeds, resulting in irregular seams. In this study a fuzzy logic controller was used. The reference displacement value is set up by an adaptive method in order to respect changes on the number of plies. The tested fuzzy logic controller allows a better performance of the control especially in relation with different fabrics. During this study another control strategy was considered. This control strategy combines a PI-algorithm with a fuzzy logic controller. Yet, the controller restricts the use of new fabrics, which have not been defined in advance. This aspect will be a major point in the future development in order to recognize the fabrics during sewing and to adapt the controller adequately.

An innovative device for bobbin thread consumption measurement on industrial lockstitch sewing machines

Carvalho, Helder; Rocha, A. M.; Monteiro, João L.; Silva, Luís F.
Fonte: Universidade do Minho Publicador: Universidade do Minho
Tipo: Conferência ou Objeto de Conferência
Publicado em /12/2004 ENG
Relevância na Pesquisa
57.02%
Comunicação apresentada na International Conference on Industrial Technology, Hammamet, Tunisia, 8 - 10 Dezembro 2004.; This paper presents some development work following up on previous research on monitoring and control techniques for high-speed industrial sewing machines. The main objective of the studies is to develop techniques and devices to allow a faster set-up, greater flexibility and higher product quality in industrial sewing operations. One of the main aspects of the sewing process is the interlacing of threads – stitch formation. It has been found that the on-line measurement of thread consumption can provide information about stitch adjustment and serve as a feedback variable for thread tension control. In this paper, an overview of this technique will be given, with particular focus on the quantification of bobbin thread consumption in lockstitch machines, one of the most widely used type of machine. In this specific case, measurement is difficult due to lack of physical space for the sensors.; Fundação para a Ci~Encia e Tecnologia - Fundação para a Ciência - POSI/SRI/38944/2001.

Planning, control and monitoring tools for industrial garment assembly processes

Carvalho, Helder; Rocha, A. M.; Monteiro, João L.; Silva, Luís F.
Fonte: Universidade do Minho Publicador: Universidade do Minho
Tipo: Conferência ou Objeto de Conferência
Publicado em //2003 ENG
Relevância na Pesquisa
26.19%
Garment construction is a complex process due to the properties of the textile materials. Furthermore it still relies on human operators in most of the material handling and process monitoring. On the other hand, the set-up of the machines is still based on trial-and-error and empirical knowledge. Current market trends with higher demand on quality, shorter production runs and increasing variety of materials boost the economical significance of machine set-up and better process planning, monitoring and control. This paper presents the development of monitoring and control techniques aiming at the introduction of new tools to accomplish this. A sensor-based data acquisition and analysis system has been developed that enables a quick offline evaluation of the performance of the machine in several of its subsystems. Knowledge that has been gained from these measurements is the basis to develop CAE/CAM tools and real-time control devices; Fundação para a Ciência e Tecnologia - POSI/SRI/38944/2001.

Process control in next-generation sewing machines : a project overview

Carvalho, Helder; Rocha, A. M.; Monteiro, João L.
Fonte: International Engineering Publishing Publicador: International Engineering Publishing
Tipo: Conferência ou Objeto de Conferência
Publicado em /06/2003 ENG
Relevância na Pesquisa
46.82%
The sewing machine created in the XIX century has roughly remained unchanged in its basic technologies. Although a great range of mechanical and electronic technologies has boosted its development enormously, the process of sewing itself, however, although perfected in many aspects, has remained uncontrolled.Many of the phenomena occurring at high-speed sewing (up to 10000 stitches per minute) are still not properly understood. This project is creating a deeper insight into the sewing process, identifying and describing the variables that can be monitored and/or controlled in a way that ensures a better control of this production process. Some monitoring and control algorithms are already under test. Concurrently the project develops software support tools to allow the up-front engineering of the process, resulting in control parameters to be downloaded to the machine controllers. The software would also serve as a support tool for the textile manufacturer, to tune and improve materials’ properties and define the relationship between materials and optimum sewing conditions.; Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia (FCT) – Project funding POSI/SRI/38944/2001.

Signal feature extraction for sewing analysis using non-linear tecniques

Carvalho, Helder; Ferreira, Pedro; Rocha, A. M.; Monteiro, João L.
Fonte: Universidade do Minho Publicador: Universidade do Minho
Tipo: Conferência ou Objeto de Conferência
Publicado em /06/2003 ENG
Relevância na Pesquisa
46.6%
Comunicação apresentada no International Symposium on Industrial Electronics, Rio de Janeiro, Brasil, 9 - 11 Junho 2003.; This paper describes the measurement of a proc-ess variable in industrial sewing machines using a piezoelectric sensing system and non-linear filtering and processing tech-niques. The objective is to obtain a measure of the needle pene-tration and withdrawal forces in a fabric, which can be used to detect faulty processing conditions causing second-rate quality products. Aimed for future real-time applications, currently the measurement process has been optimised for laboratory use. It provides the means for experimentation leading to the development of further processing techniques able to detect fault conditions automatically, a completely innovative indus-trial application. The signal is acquired by a piezoelectric sensor introduced in the needle support bar. With this set-up, the sensor provides not only the forces related to needle-fabric interaction, but also other, undesired components, that are reduced with specifi-cally developed techniques. This paper presents the advantages and drawbacks of the measurement set-up and describes the optimization of the complex processing techniques used to ex-tract the relevant information from the signals.; Fundação para a Ciência e Tecnologia - POSI/SRI/38944/2001.

Measurement and analysis of needle penetration forces in industrial high-speed sewing machine

Carvalho, Helder; Rocha, A. M.; Monteiro, João L.
Fonte: Taylor and Francis Publicador: Taylor and Francis
Tipo: Artigo de Revista Científica
Publicado em /05/2009 ENG
Relevância na Pesquisa
36.69%
The industrial manufacturing of sewn products has always been one of the critical processes of the textile chain concerning quality assurance. Assuring the appropriate set-up and operation of all the machines, and thus the final seam quality, is a very complex task. Traditionally, this task is accomplished through empirical methods, with the machine setting and quality control relying on the skills of operators and technicians. This work presents an approach to a more knowledge-based and integrated process planning and control. A system was developed to measure and analyze the most important mechanical effects occurring during high-speed sewing. The paper will focus mainly on the measurement and evaluation of needle penetration and withdrawal force. After an overview of the system, the most important experimental results obtained in a series of experiments will be described.

Parameter monitoring and control in industrial sewing machines : an integrated approach

Carvalho, Helder; Silva, Luís F.; Monteiro, João L.; Rocha, A. M.
Fonte: IEEE Publicador: IEEE
Tipo: Conferência ou Objeto de Conferência
Publicado em /04/2008 ENG
Relevância na Pesquisa
46.93%
The industrial manufacturing of sewn products has always been one of the critical processes of the textile chain concerning quality assurance. Assuring the appropriate set-up and operation of all the machines, and thus the final seam quality, is a very complex task. Traditionally, this task is accomplished by empirical methods, with machine setting and quality control relying on the skills of operators and technicians. In this work, an approach to a more knowledge-based and integrated process planning and control is presented. A system was developed to measure and analyze the most important mechanical effects occurring during high-speed sewing. A general overview over this development is given in this paper.; Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia (FCT) - POSI/SRI/38944/2001

Estudo da dinâmica de costura numa máquina de costura de ponto preso

Ferreira, Avelino Machado
Fonte: Universidade do Minho Publicador: Universidade do Minho
Tipo: Dissertação de Mestrado
Publicado em 14/09/2009 POR
Relevância na Pesquisa
27.02%
Dissertação de mestrado em Engenharia Têxtil (área de especialização em Design e Marketing); A indústria têxtil e do vestuário (ITV) é considerada uma indústria de mão-de-obra intensiva e cada vez mais associada a países pouco desenvolvidos, resultado da forte deslocalização da produção de norte para sul ao longo dos anos. Contudo, como em qualquer outro sector económico, a evolução da ITV ficou marcada por um forte investimento em tecnologias, de modo a conseguirem alcançar maiores níveis de produtividade e qualidade, que lhes permitam alcançar maiores níveis de competitividade, minorando o peso do factor mão-de-obra. A ITV vive actualmente uma crescente variação de modelos, com grande variedade e combinação de materiais e acabamentos, tornando cada vez mais importante conseguir um rápido e eficaz ajuste das máquinas de costura para cada modelo que entra em produção. A obtenção de uma costura com boa qualidade exige que se considerem alguns parâmetros importantes: tipo de agulha, tipo de linhas de costura, tensões de linha geradas nessas linhas como resultado dos valores de pré-tensão definidos para os tensores de linha, máquina de costura, material e o próprio operador. O trabalho desenvolvido segue uma linha de investigação de um grupo de investigadores da Universidade do Minho...

Adaptive control of an electromagnetically presser-foot for industrial sewing

Carvalho, Helder; Silva, Luís F.; Oliveira, Filomena; Guhr, Florian
Fonte: IEEE Publicador: IEEE
Tipo: Conferência ou Objeto de Conferência
Publicado em /09/2010 ENG
Relevância na Pesquisa
46.79%
This study describes some possibilities of setting up an adaptive control method for an electromagnetically actuated presser-foot in an industrial high-speed sewing machine. The control of fabrics feeding in sewing machines is difficult not only because of the complexity of relations between the intervening variables (material properties, sewing speed), but also because in many operations a varying number of material plies are crossed. This implies that the reference for the controller has to be adapted dynamically. Several methods, using PID and/or fuzzy logic control, have been tried and are described in this paper. A preliminary sewing test is able to provide data to tune the controller variables. With these adaptation techniques, the machine would be able to automatically adapt its feeding system according to the material being sewn.; Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia (FCT)

Automatic presser-foot force control for industrial sewing machines

Carvalho, Helder; Silva, Luís F.; Rocha, A. M.; Monteiro, João L.
Fonte: Emerald Journals Publicador: Emerald Journals
Tipo: Artigo de Revista Científica
Publicado em //2012 ENG
Relevância na Pesquisa
47.02%
To develop and test control methods for real-time automatic presser-foot force control in industrial sewing machines. In this work, a closed-loop controller that controls presser-foot maximum vertical displacement is presented and compared to existing solutions that adjust force depending on sewing speed. Automatic force control can reduce problems such as stitch irregularity, stitch distortions and material damage, besides making material handling easier. Design/methodology/approach An electromagnetic force actuator was integrated in an industrial lockstitch machine. A computer-based control system was designed implementing either speed-variable force control, closed-loop control, or emulating a traditional constant-force system. Maximum presser-foot displacement values were measured and analysed in relevant sewing situations, and seam quality was assessed. Findings Constant-force control does not allow optimal force setting at all speeds. Speed-variable force control is an improvement, but requires empirical setting of the speed-force relation, not always assuring optimal operation. Closed-loop control adapts force to the requirement of each sewing situation more precisely. Sewing quality is good and material handling is eased. Research limitations/implications The actuator has to be optimised regarding response time and maximum force. Some aspects in the behaviour of the control system and actuator have to be further studied. Practical implications The proposed control system enables the automatic setting and adaptation of force to all sewing situations...

Evolução do design das máquinas de costura Oliva no contexto da sociedade feminina portuguesa entre 1948 e 1972

Tavares, Ana Margarida Pereira Lima, 1988-
Fonte: Universidade de Lisboa Publicador: Universidade de Lisboa
Tipo: Dissertação de Mestrado
Publicado em //2011 POR
Relevância na Pesquisa
27.02%
Tese de mestrado, Design de Equipamento (Especialização em Estudos do Design), Universidade de Lisboa, Faculdade de Belas Artes, 2011; Sewing is one of the oldest activities of humanity. To it are associated several machines, such as the sewing machine. It came up along with the Industrial Revolution, time in which was the boom of new inventions. In Portugal, the sewing machine emerged on the second half of the XIX century, from foreign brands. It was only in 1948 that Portugal had access to the first national sewing machine, which was produced by the company commonly known as Oliva, founded in 1925 as a small iron foundry factory. Besides sewing machines, Oliva produced other equipments, from enameled iron bathtubs to small displacement engines. At the time, design still wasn‟t a totally recognized profession, making its job engineers or artisans. Besides production itself, there was also a concern about the publicity of the sewing machine. So, there was an investment on the diffusion of the brand through jingles, billboards or even sponsors of important portuguese events. As a great sewing machine user, the role of the portuguese women stands out at the Oliva‟s publicity and the immersion of the brand in the social and cultural life. They are those who will better relate with these equipments...

Goats and sewing machines

Jacob, George Puthenpurayil
Fonte: Canadian Medical Association Publicador: Canadian Medical Association
Tipo: Artigo de Revista Científica
Publicado em 04/12/2007 EN
Relevância na Pesquisa
26.19%

W.W. Tyrrill receipt, June 1888

Fonte: Brock University Publicador: Brock University
Tipo: Artigo de Revista Científica
Relevância na Pesquisa
46.64%
A receipt from W.W. Tyrrill, of St. Catharines, Ontario dated June 2, 1888, for a ladies Swiss watch priced at $11.00. The receipt is a rental agreement which specifies the terms of a fee payment schedule. Information on the receipt indicates Mr. Tyrrill sold watches, jewelry, silver plated goods, albums and Bibles. He is also listed as an agent for pianos, organs and Singer sewing machines. This receipt was in the possession of Iris Sloman Bell, of St. Catharines. Relatives of the Sloman Bell families include former Black slaves from the United States who settled in southern Ontario.There are various spellings of the Tyrrill name within the Bell family archive. Other forms of the name include Tyrell, Tyrrell, and Terrell.

Características audiológicas en trabajadores de una fábrica textil de la ciudad de Santiago.

Silva Silva, Karin Angélica
Fonte: Universidad Andrés Bello Publicador: Universidad Andrés Bello
Tipo: Tesis
ES
Relevância na Pesquisa
26.46%
Tesis (Magíster en Audiología); RESUMEN: La medición de las características audiológicas que presentan los trabajadores de una empresa textil de la ciudad de Santiago es del interés o motivación de la autora. Para obtener tales características, fue necesario realizar un examen audiométrico en el que se obtuvieron los umbrales auditivos de las frecuencias 0.25, 0.5, 1, 2, 3, 4, 6 y 8 KHz. a una muestra de 37 personas. Dicha muestra, luego, se dividió en dos grupos: un grupo control compuesto por 9 personas, no expuestas a ruidos de alta intensidad y un grupo estudio compuesto por 28 personas expuestas a ruidos iguales o superiores a 85 dB.(A). Los individuos del grupo de estudio, pertenecen a las áreas de corte, embalaje y máquinas de coser de la empresa en estudio. Se observó que el 64,3% de los trabajadores expuestos a ruidos de alta intensidad presentaron audición normal, mientras que el 35,7% presentaron trauma acústico, de los cuales el 80% se desempeñaba en el área de las máquinas de coser, cuyo ruido promedio fue de 95 dB. (A) y el 20% restante, en corte con 90 dB. (A) de ruido promedio. De los trabajadores que presentaron trauma acústico, el 78,9 % fue de primer grado o inicial, mientras que el 21...

Proposta de procedimento para estudar a ampliação dos parâmetros: densidade de pontos por centímetro e espessura das agulhas, especificados pela norma ABNT NBR 9925:2009, utilizados na verificação da costurabilidade de vestuário escolar; Proposal for a procedure to study the expansion of parameters: density of dots per inch and thickness of the needles, specified by the ABNT NBR 9925: 2009, used for verification of school clothing sewability.

Pessoa, Karina dos Santos Galego
Fonte: Biblioteca Digitais de Teses e Dissertações da USP Publicador: Biblioteca Digitais de Teses e Dissertações da USP
Tipo: Dissertação de Mestrado Formato: application/pdf
Publicado em 27/04/2015 PT
Relevância na Pesquisa
16.6%
A indústria de confecção de vestuário transforma um tecido bidimensional em um artigo tridimensional. Embora existam vários métodos para unir as partes de um artigo de vestuário, a costura com linhas é o método mais utilizado. A costura é quem fornece resistência à peça, e nesse sentido, perde sua funcionalidade se por acaso romper os fios do tecido, ou ainda, se houver rompimento da linha, ou outro problema como esgarçamento, deslizamento do tecido ou da costura. A qualidade de uma costura é definida pelos seus desempenhos funcionais e estéticos. A norma ABNT NBR 9925:2009 estabelece as condições do ensaio que indica se a costura tem tendência a abrir-se mediante a aplicação de uma força; também aponta os tipos de agulhas, linhas e fios, e ainda indica a densidade de pontos e máquinas adequadas para a confecção dos corpos de prova que serão ensaiados. O objetivo deste trabalho é utilizar o planejamento de experimentos para estudar a possibilidade de ampliar dos valores de densidade de pontos por centímetro e espessuras das agulhas, propostos pela referida norma ABNT NBR 9925:2009 para verificar a costurabilidade de uniformes escolares. Foram selecionados no mercado três tecidos normalmente utilizados na confecção desses artigos; e em seguida...

Optimisation and control of processes in apparel manufacturing : new tools for efficiency and quality assurance in industrial sewing technology

Carvalho, Helder
Fonte: VDM Publicador: VDM
Tipo: Livro
Publicado em //2010 ENG
Relevância na Pesquisa
36.74%
The industrial production of garments and similar textile end products is an activity with roots back to the 19th century that has profited immensely from continuous technological developments since its first emergence. However, several characteristics of the materials that are processed give rise to technical issues that are difficult to objectively manage and control. The machines, although often equipped with complex devices to aid in material handling, are blind regarding the process itself; they run with an initial set-up and are neither capable of adapting to varying sewing conditions nor can they detect anomalous operation. This work intends to measure and analyse several sewing variables in-process, in order to develop objective tools to plan, monitor and control the process. Several variables related to stitch formation, material feeding and needle penetration, were measured dynamically in an extensive experiment. The results found point to the possibility of designing monitoring and control algorithms for several sewing parameters, concurrently with process planning and material testing tools.; Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia (FCT)

Hamiltonian Cycles in Linear-Convex Supergrid Graphs

Hung, Ruo-Wei
Fonte: Universidade Cornell Publicador: Universidade Cornell
Tipo: Artigo de Revista Científica
Publicado em 30/05/2015
Relevância na Pesquisa
26.19%
A supergrid graph is a finite induced subgraph of the infinite graph associated with the two-dimensional supergrid. The supergrid graphs contain grid graphs and triangular grid graphs as subgraphs. The Hamiltonian cycle problem for grid and triangular grid graphs was known to be NP-complete. In the past, we have shown that the Hamiltonian cycle problem for supergrid graphs is also NP-complete. The Hamiltonian cycle problem on supergrid graphs can be applied to control the stitching trace of computerized sewing machines. In this paper, we will study the Hamiltonian cycle property of linear-convex supergrid graphs which form a subclass of supergrid graphs. A connected graph is called $k$-connected if there are $k$ vertex-disjoint paths between every pair of vertices, and is called locally connected if the neighbors of each vertex in it form a connected subgraph. In this paper, we first show that any 2-connected, linear-convex supergrid graph is locally connected. We then prove that any 2-connected, linear-convex supergrid graph contains a Hamiltonian cycle.; Comment: 17 pages, 24 figurs